Australia’s Great Barrier Reef is one of those fabled, almost mythical places in the annals of travel that a person feels he or she must visit at some point in life. While I had always thought it would be an incredible experience, I was wholly unprepared; a state some may argue is the best way to experience a new place. No preconceptions or expectations.
We took a small chartered flight out to Lady Elliot Island, a 16 km long haven for 100 species of birds at the southern tip of the reef. The island is surrounded by hard coral (not the colourful, soft varieties you see on postcards but denser and darker) and its’ beaches are littered with white bits of dead coral that’s been washed ashore. When we first got to the island, I have to admit I was less than impressed. It didn’t fit my idea of a tropical island and the smell of bird poop was overwhelming in the open-air facilities for day-trippers.
Our tour included a short tour on a glass bottomed boat which turned out to be not all that special because it mostly looked like a washing machine below us. As soon as Dane and I hopped off the boat however, for our first snorkelling expedition of the day, my mind was quickly changed. We hadn’t been in the water two minutes when a giant, green-backed sea turtle swam by. We swam with her and touched her massive shell, while admiring her smooth, graceful movements through the water. We were both smiling at each other through our masks, unbelieving this surreal moment. She slowly swam down to the ocean floor and came to rest under a large coral shelf, obviously tired of being touched by strangers.
The day only got better and we spent the entire afternoon exploring just one small area of the reef surrounding the island. It was a humbling experience seeing the underwater world and all of its valleys, caves and trenches and not realizing before just how epic it really is. And we are only at the tip of the Great Barrier Reef! Just imagine a week-long scuba expedition- it’s mind boggling the things one would see; I could’ve stayed out there for days on end.
The fish in the reef system embody every colour and shape possible and some of them even combine asymmetrical colour patterns, combined with odd shaped heads or tails. Some swim sideways and some swim in great schools together while others are obvious bullies on the playground and whip through the smaller fish nipping at their fins.
The stillness and the complete quiet under the water is also startling. It is so silent that if you’re watching and listening close enough you can hear fish biting at the coral. I thought I was losing my mind until I followed one large teal blue, purple and yellow guy around as he gnawed off bits from the coral with his white teeth and I could hear a short crunching sound.
Besides all the fish there’s also manta rays near Lady Elliot and are the emblem for the island. We were directed out to a particularly good area to spot them and after about half an hour of swimming around we saw one on the ocean floor below us. Its great black fins curved up and down gently as it skimmed the bottom and seemed to scoop up fish with hooks in the front. Not long after I saw another turtle, though much smaller than the first. The young turtles are often skittish and I kicked my flippers too hard trying to get closer to it and it darted off into the water.
We fought the waves and current back on shore only to realize it was 3 p.m. and we were due to fly off the island in less than an hour. Dane decided to enjoy the view from the shore for awhile and I raced back in the water. Not long after I returned, I spotted a grey shark with a recognizable black-tipped fin on his back. Knowing he was a harmless reef shark I followed his erratic swimming patterns, watching as fish cleared a path for him. When he quickly turned in my direction I was honestly a bit scared. He swam off and I didn’t follow him.
Just as I was gearing up for the swim back, I saw another small turtle. I followed her slowly and she swam in great big circles. I never got close enough for a pet but just watching her was enough.
Leaving the water, I was getting my bag ready to walk back to the main area and stopped to look at the water. The beach that I had previously passed off as unattractive now looked absolutely gorgeous as the lowering sun lit up everything with a luminous sheen. And knowing the wonders that lie in the waters beyond the beach made it that much more special.
Leaving Lady Elliot, I got a great window seat as Dane had elected to sit up front with the pilot. From the air the island is absolutely gorgeous and the reef is clearly visible in dark patches all around. The water begins as a pale teal at the shore line and progresses through varying shades of turquoise until it gets deeper and turns into an indigo blue. Watching from the plane, I spotted a few sharks and a group of dolphins and relished in one of the best experiences I’ve ever had.
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